martes, 7 de julio de 2009

Aconcagua 360º



Daily Program
Day 1: Airport reception and transport to the hotel
Our expedition begins in Mendoza, Argentina. At your arrival to the international airport or bus station in the City of Mendoza, an INKA Expeditions representative will be waiting for you. After receiving you, we drive you to your Hotel in a private vehicle and after you rest, you meet the Guide that will check your equipment. This is a very important step. Mendoza is the last place available, where you can buy or rent equipment, it is not always easy to find the things you need at the last minute.


Day 2: Transport from Mendoza to the Hotel in Penitentes.
From the city Hotel a van drives the group to the Government Offices to obtain individual entrance and ascent permits. You will be personally assisted in this procedure. After this, you are taken through a picturesque road to the mountain. After another hour of walking through high mountain roads, we arrive to Villa de Penitentes, where we stay at a Hotel in the mountain. In the afternoon, we get the equipment ready for transportation to the base camp, by mule. Dinner and rest.


Day 3: Approaching from Penitentes to Pampa de Leñas.
During this day we start the approaching from Penitentes to Pampa de Leñas. After a night in Penitentes, we are transported to the entrance of Aconcagua Park. We arrive to Punta de Vacas, where the mule carriers load the equipment on the mules and we walk to the Base Camp, this takes three days. On this day, we trek from 4 to 5 hours up to the camp Pampa de Leñas (2950 m). This is where we present our permits to the park rangers, we meet up with our equipment and we assemble the dormitory tents. After refreshment, we enjoy dinner.


Day 4: Acclimatization trek from Pampa de Leñas to Casa de Piedras.
In the early morning we prepare our equipment again to be transported by the mules and we have a large breakfast. On this day, we advance towards an intermediate camp, passing through the Quebrada de Vacas, for 6 to 7 hours where you see the Quebrada de Relinchos Stream. This is where we will be able to see the first sight of the Western Face of the Aconcagua. This place is named Casa de Piedras (3240 m) and is where we spend our last approaching night, from Base Camp. Again we assemble the dormitory tents and then we have dinner.


Day 5: Approach from Casa de Piedras to Plaza Argentina (4200 mt)
This is the last day of approaching to Plaza Argentina (4200 m). We start trekking for 5 to 6 hours, going through the margins of the Relincho Stream and ascending the steep slope of the same name, which takes us to Inferior Plaza Argentina. This is where we will be able to see the last native vegetation before climbing towards the glaciers, where Plaza Argentina is placed. At this camp, we meet up with our personal equipment, the INKA Expeditions staff and the modern infrastructure domes that will assure us a comfortable stay; we also start preparing for the ascension.


Day 6: Rest and acclimatization Base Camp.
At Plaza de Argentina we rest and use the day for acclimatization. This is a good opportunity to get to know the Camp, take a shower and explore the area. We get together with the guide, do a medical check up, reorganize and review the equipment, prepare the loads, the fuel and food for transportation for the next day. This is the moment to get to know the climbers from other parts of the world and to meet the people that work at the camps.


Day 7: Equipment carrying to Camp 1 (5000 mt)
We transport in a way to keep our backpacks as light as possible and fundamentally to be able to gradually adapt to the height. During the load transportation to the altitude 1 camps, we reach a level of 5000 m. This is a hard day, where we will be walking for 6 hours, ascending on easy terrain. This is when we start enjoying the real beauty of high altitude, ascending more and more, obtaining a spectacular view of the Quebrada de Relinchos and the Horcones Valley. It is very important to control the adaptation of our body to height, and stimulate the evolution of our acclimatization.


Day 8: Ascent to Camp 1 (5000 mt)
We have breakfast and start the ascent from Camp 1. After a 5 to 6 hour walk on easy terrain we arrive to Camp 1 (5000 mt). We meet with the load that we brought the day before. We assemble the camp and then we load division for carrying the following day. We rest and have dinner.


Day 9: Equipment carrying to camp 2 (5500 mt)
We carry food and fuel to camp 2 (5500 mt). This exercise helps us keep our backpacks as light as possible and fundamentally to continue with our gradual acclimatization to height. During the load transportation to high camp 2, we reach a level of 5500 mt. This is a hard day, of about 6 hours of walking, where we ascend on easy terrain. Besides this effort, it is very important to control our body adaptation to height and the evolution of our acclimatization. We return to Camp 1. Have dinner and rest.


Day 10: Rest at Camp 1 (5000 mt)
This is a day we mainly use to recover energy, to rest, to hydrate ourselves and for abundant meals. We must prepare ourselves mentally, for the final stage. We talk with our expedition mates and agree on final plans and strategies with our guides.


Day 11: Ascent to Camp 2 (5500 mt)
We have breakfast and start the ascent from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5500 mt). We meet with the load that we brought two days before. We assemble the camp and then we load division for carrying the following day. We rest and have dinner.


Day 12: Equipment carrying to Camp 3 –Cólera (5900 mt)
We carry food and fuel to camp 3 (5900 mt). This exercise helps us keep our backpacks as light as possible and fundamentally to continue with our gradual acclimatization to height. During the load transportation to high camp 3, we reach a level of 5900 mt. This is a hard day, of about 4 hours of walking, where we ascend on easy terrain. Besides this effort, it is very important to control our body adaptation to height and the evolution of our acclimatization.We return to Camp 2 and rest. We have dinner.


Day 13: Ascent to Camp 3 (5900 Mt)
Early morning, after breakfast and after disassembling our tents, we start ascending for around 4 hs. The climb is diagonal and towards the right. We must cross the inferior, flat part of the glacier, to be able to arrive to the northern edge of the Aconcagua. Our camp 3 is placed at the same height as the Berlin refuge (from the Normal Route), strategically situated because it is so close to the Normal Route, for its altitude and cover from winds. From there, you can see unforgettable sights of the highest peaks of the Central Andes. We place our last high altitude camp here. The Guide individually reviews each member of the group and gives his final recommendations. We also plan the final strategies for the last day of ascension to assure success in reaching the summit. We have dinner and rest.


Day 14: Summit day (6962 mt)
The day begins at 5:00 am. This is the most demanding day of our expedition. We continue north and join the Normal Route at 6200 m, a point found between the Independence refuge and camp Piedras Blancas. We continue on the Normal Route up to the Independence Refuge (6500 m). This is normally where we see the first sun rays of the day. We ascend the "Portezuelo del Viento" where we can find strong winds, even on calm days. From here on we pass by the superior part of the Western face and climb "La Canaleta", a 300 m channel that takes us to edge of the summit. During an hour, we go through the Filo del Guanaco, that leads us to the summit. From the "Filo del Guanaco" we can directly observe under our feet, the Southern Wall of the Aconcagua, considered one of the largest walls of the world. An indescribable sensation takes of total satisfaction takes over as we reach the summit at 6962 m, where the prize is waiting for us, a 360° view and the experience of overcoming, that you only finally understand once you reach it. After sharing these moments of accomplishment and emotion with our expedition mates, we descend to camp 3.


Days 15 and 16: Reserve
We consider these two days spare days in case of bad weather. If we do not use them either we can return earlier to Mendoza City or stay at Plaza de Mulas Camp.
Day 17: Plaza de Mulas (4200 mt)
Return to Base Camp. Special reception and have a dinner for celebration.


Day 18, Mendoza
We have breakfast and then start the descent from Plaza de Mulas to Penitentes. There is a private transport waiting for us to take us to Mendoza City.
Day 19, Airport

Aconcagua Normal Route





The Route
The normal route is technically easy. The hard part is the height; it often gives people headaches and loss of hunger. Besides this, your body has to work with less oxygen than normal. This is why we are so careful with the acclimatization. The approach to Plaza de Mulas is a long distance of about 40 km. We are also used to making acclimatization trekking to Plaza Francia, the Base Camp of the Southern Wall. It takes us three days to get to Plaza de Mulas. After that, there are three more camps, before reaching to the summit. Our suggested program is set for two days of double equipment porting and security. When the last stage begins, we go higher and higher until we reach the summit. In the Aconcagua , sometimes the presence of a white wind difficults the ascent, this is why we use the security days, increasing the chances to reach the summit.



Daily Program
Day 1: Reception at the Airport. Transfer to the Hotel in MENDOZA City.

Our expedition starts in Mendoza, Argentina. At your arrival to the airport a representative of INKA Expediciones will be waiting for you. From the airport we drive to a comfortable hotel in the city. After you have rested from flying we will check the
gear. Gear check is a critical step. Mendoza is the last chance to buy or rent gear, though it is not always easy to find it at last minute. A group meeting will follow gear check. We will introduce your guides and team members. Dinner will take place immediately after the meeting at "Parrillada" (typical Argentinean restaurant). We will have a chance to taste the famous "asado" (Argentinean barbecue) and delicious wines which Mendoza is so famous for (there are plenty of alternatives for non-drinkers and vegetarians in the group as well). Be prepared for a late dinner since dinnertime in Argentina begins at 9:00 PM!Accomodation: Hotel double basis –Meals: Not included


Day 2: Land transport from Mendoza to Penitentes Mountain Inn.
From the hotel, our van will take us to a little place near the route, called Penitentes (2.700 mts.). Here we organize mule loads, and spend the night. Accomodation: Hostel – Meals: B: Breakfast & D: Dinner


Day 3: Transfer from Penitentes to Puente de Inca. Start approaching trekking to Confluencia
After one night in Penitentes, we’ll drive to Puente de Inca, little town situated 6 kilometers far from Penitentes and then to Horcones Lake, where we get our first view of the mountain. We will get our permits checked at the Ranger station. Trekking up to Confluencia at 3500 mts, unload the mules, set up camp, drink some tea or matte (regional infusion served in a gourd and drank with a metal straw) and enjoy the dinner.Mules depart from Puente de Inca and you’ll have access to your load at Confluencia. So you should carry a daily backpack for the first days. Then the equipment will arrive to Plaza de Mulas.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D

Day 4: Acclimatization trekking to Plaza Francia (4.200 mt.)
We’ve included this day in order to acclimatize better, and give you more chances to summit. Climbing slowly and returning helps your body to get use to altitude. We’ll trek for about 5 hours until we arrive to Plaza Francia, base camp of the impressive Aconcagua south wall. From this place Aconcagua, the Stone Sentinel, appears more magnificent and intimidating than ever. We can see the entire South face. This is one of the nicest points of the expedition with a breathtaking first view of Aconcagua that you will never forget. Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D


Day 5: Rest and acclimatization in Confluencia.
This day is for acclimatization. We will do a trekking around Confluencia. We will climb Cº San Valentín (3800mt)Accomodation: Tents-Meals: B,L, & D
Day 6: Approaching from Confluencia to Plaza de Mulas (Base camp, 4.250 mts.)
We will begin our second approaching day, trekking into Plaza de Mulas, base camp for our expedition. Early morning we start our walk across "Playa Ancha" (meaning wide beach) it is a deserted and always windy valley. We slowly gain altitude up the Horcones Superior Valley. By the end of our day's hike, after 8-9 hours walk and climb up "Cuesta Brava" (meaning rugged slope) a very steep path we reach Plaza de Mulas, our 4.250 mts. Base Camp. This day is important to our acclimatization. By the end of the day, most of us will feel the altitude.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D


Day 7-9: Rest and acclimatization.
After our arrival at Plaza de Mulas, we set up camp. We will spend a minimum of 3 nights in Base Camp. The first day in Base Camp is always a rest day and a good occasion to take a bath and explore the local terrain. We will divide expedition loads to carry to the high camps (community gear, fuel and food). We double carry to keep pack weight down and help ensure good acclimatization. After our rest in Base Camp we will do a carry to Camp I and Camp ll, reaching 5.400 mts. This is a challenging day where we gain 1.000 mts with a heavy load, up some easy terrain. We will spend the next day preparing for the climb, and acclimatizing to the higher altitude.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D


Day 10: Rest or move from base camp to Camp l at 4.900 mts.
The following morning could be a possible rest day or a definite move to Camp I, called "Plaza Canada", this will depend on how the group is doing, and on the weather. We want everyone to have the best possible chance to acclimatize and make the Summit.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D


Day 11: Move to Camp II.
Camp II, called "Nido de Condores" (meaning Condor nest), is located in a high pass at 5.400 mts. and provides spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D


Day 12: Carry equipment from Camp 2 to Camp 3. Return to sleep to Camp 3-
On this day we carry equipment to Camp III called Camp Colera (6000mts). After taking the equipment up we return to Camp II to sleep, giving to your body more chances to acclimatize.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D


Day 13: Ascent from Camp ll to Camp lll (6.000 mts).
Move to high camp, Camp Ill called “Colera”, located on the North Ridge, offers breathtaking scenes of many of the highest peaks of the Andes.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D

Day 14: Summit day. (6.962 mts.)
Summit day begins at 5:00 am. It is the most demanding and serious day of the expedition. We climb the North Ridge to Independencia Refuge at approximately 6.500 mts. normally the sun shines here for the first time that day. The next section is called "El Portezuelo del Viento" (meaning the Door of the Wind), where often there is a strong breeze even on calm days. From there, we will traverse the West Face and climb up into "La Canaleta", a 300 mts. couloirs which leads to the summit ridge. After the Canaleta, the Guanaco Ridge poses an easy traverse to the summit. This last section takes normally up to 1 hour. From the Guanaco Ridge you will be able to look directly down the 3.000 mts South Face of Aconcagua, face of rock, snow, and ice considered one of the greatest in the world!!On the top we have a spectacular 360º view. Also on the summit you will experience personal feelings and emotions that we can't describe for you. You should live it your self.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D

Days 15 and 16: Spare days in case of bad weather conditions.
We have three days to summit set aside on our itinerary. Acclimatization, rest and bad weather days. These extra days are built in to provide the best possible conditions for each participant to summit. We need a good window of weather to summit. After the climb, we return to high camp, get a well deserved rest, and the next day descend to Base CampAccomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D


Day 17: Return to base camp.
Return from Camp III to base camp. We’ll enjoy a great dinner to celebrate the climb.Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 18: Return from base camp to Penitentes and back to Mendoza
Return hike from base camp to Puente de Inca. Transfer to Penitentes. A van will be waiting for us to drive us to Mendoza, and we’ll have a celebration dinner.Accomodation: Hotel double basis –Meals: Not included


Day 19: Mendoza.
Breakfast at the hotel. End of services.



NOTE
The proposed itinerary can be changed due to weather conditions o other forced situations that put in risk the group security. The guides have the authority to change the programme according to their criteria. You can be sure the changes have two fundamental objectives. These are to maximize the security and the summit chances. And they are based on our guides knowledge and experience